Video Stage 22: Astorga to Foncebadón | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 22: Astorga to Foncebadón | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios invites readers to join him on Stage 22 of the Camino de Santiago, running from Astorga to Foncebadón, covering a distance of 26 kilometres. Jhonatan completed this stage between 26 April and 26 May 2022.
In the video, Jhonatan shares his adventure as he, his girlfriend and their friend Fran walk this stage towards Foncebadón. Although the final kilometres were especially heavy and exhausting, the striking beauty of the landscape provided great comfort along the way. At the end of the stage, Jhonatan met up with some fellow Mexican pilgrims who were walking the Camino de Santiago Frances that same season.
Stage 22: Astorga to Foncebadón with Jhonatan Barrios
The Camino de Santiago Frances, a journey steeped in history, spirituality and physical challenge, leaves its mark on all who walk it. Jhonatan Barrios, an enthusiastic pilgrim, sets out on Stage 22 of the Camino Frances, stretching from the city of Astorga to the small village of Foncebadón. Though demanding, this stage promises spectacular scenery and a deep immersion into Maragato culture.
The day begins with the departure from Astorga, a city known for its impressive cathedral and its Episcopal Palace designed by the famous architect Antoni Gaudí. Jhonatan and his girlfriend, who accompanies him on this leg of the journey, set off from the hostel. Although the sun has already risen, the morning is cold, promising pleasant temperatures for walking later on.
With 26 kilometres ahead of them, Jhonatan and his companion prepare for a day that will take them through varied landscapes, from the plateau to the first mountain hills heralding the approach of El Bierzo. The anticipation of what lies ahead keeps the pilgrims motivated as they leave the cobbled streets of Astorga behind and head into the quiet countryside of León.
Through the Maragatería Region
Murias de Rechivaldo and Santa Catalina de Somoza: A Journey to the Past
The route soon brings the pilgrims to Murias de Rechivaldo, a small village with deep roots in the history of the arrieros, the traditional mule drivers who once travelled the trade routes between northern and southern Spain. The Maragatería, the region where Murias is located, is known for its rich tradition of goods transport, a heritage reflected in the local architecture and customs.
Jhonatan and his group decide not to stop to eat, as their enthusiasm to keep going is strong. They do, however, take a moment to admire the Maragato houses, sturdy stone buildings with low roofs designed to withstand the region’s harsh climate. These houses, which have remained almost unchanged for centuries, offer an authentic glimpse into rural life in this part of Spain.
Continuing on, the route leads them to Santa Catalina de Somoza, another village of great historical importance. Here, the village church and its narrow cobbled streets seem to tell stories of times past, when the Templars protected pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The stillness of the place contrasts with the bustle of the pilgrims passing through, each with their own story and motivation for walking the Camino.
El Ganso and the Magic of the Thatched-Roof Houses
As the route climbs towards the mountains, the pilgrims reach the village of El Ganso, a village sitting more than a thousand metres above sea level. Here, the famous thatched-roof houses catch the attention of Jhonatan and his group. These buildings, which look as though they belong in a fairy tale, are remnants of Celtic times and offer a glimpse of building techniques passed down from generation to generation.
The history of this village is steeped in an ancient paganism, a religion that revered the earth, water and the natural elements. This sense of mysticism is palpable in the air, and the pilgrims, guided by their friend Frank, learn about the importance of these places in local culture. As they walk, they take in the mountain scenery and the breathtaking views unfolding before them, a preview of the physical demands still to come.
Climbing Towards Foncebadón: The Mountain Challenge
The Toughness of the Climb
After a long walk, Jhonatan and his group reach Rabanal del Camino, a village marking the start of the toughest part of the stage. Situated at the foot of Mount Irago, Rabanal is a genuine Maragato-Jacobean village, its buildings arranged around the main street, known as Calle Real. Like many other villages on the Camino, it has a rich history tied to pilgrims, including several hospitals and churches once built by the Templars of Ponferrada.
The climb from Rabanal up to Foncebadón is intense. The path winds through hills and mountains, and even though the sun is already high, the physical effort makes every step a challenge. Even so, the views from the heights make up for the fatigue. In the distance, mountain peaks come into view, and the feeling of drawing ever closer to Santiago de Compostela keeps the pilgrims pressing on.
Arrival in Foncebadón: A Village Reborn
Finally, after hours of walking, the group reaches Foncebadón, a small village perched on the slopes of Mount Irago. This place, once an important waypoint on the Camino de Santiago, was founded in the 11th century by the hermit Gauselmo, who built a hostel and a church that would later become a monastery. However, the village suffered greatly during the Peninsular War and was abandoned for decades.
In recent years, Foncebadón has experienced a revival thanks to the growing number of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The old stone buildings have been restored, and the village now offers hostels, taverns and other services for pilgrims. Jhonatan and his group find lodging at the Taberna de Gaia, a magical place that seems steeped in the telluric energies of the earth.
Here, they run into a fellow pilgrim friend from Mexico, and together they share stories and laughter about the adventures they’ve had along the way. Although they don’t manage to try the famous food at the medieval restaurant, they enjoy the Celtic atmosphere of the place, which seems to transport them back to an ancient time, full of legend and mysticism.
Final Thoughts: Preparing for the Next Stage
The Importance of History and Culture on the Camino
The stage from Astorga to Foncebadón is more than just a walk; it is an immersion into the history and culture of a region that has been tied to the Camino de Santiago for centuries. Pilgrims like Jhonatan Barrios face not only physical challenges, but also the chance to connect with the deep roots of Maragato tradition, where every stone, every village, tells a story.
The experience in Foncebadón, a village reborn from its ashes thanks to the steady flow of pilgrims, is a reminder of how the Camino de Santiago remains a living force connecting the past with the present. For Jhonatan and his group, the day ends with a sense of accomplishment and inner peace, knowing they have overcome one of the most demanding stages of the Camino.
Preparing for the Next Stage: Foncebadón to Ponferrada
With tired bodies but renewed spirits, Jhonatan and his group prepare for the next stage, which will take them from Foncebadón to Ponferrada (Video Stage 23: Foncebadón to Ponferrada with Jhonatan Barrios). This next day, while also demanding, promises new scenery and experiences that will continue to enrich their pilgrimage.
As they rest in their hostel, the pilgrims reflect on everything they have experienced so far and mentally prepare for the challenges still ahead. The Camino de Santiago is not just a physical journey, but also an inner one, where every step is an opportunity for personal growth and self-reflection.
The stage from Astorga to Foncebadón has left its mark on Jhonatan and his companions, one they will carry with them all the way to their final destination: Santiago de Compostela. Hoping the Camino will continue to offer lessons and moments of beauty, the pilgrims settle in to rest, ready to face a new day on the Camino.
In conclusion, Stage 22 of the Camino Frances is a route that combines history, culture and nature in a journey that challenges both body and spirit. Jhonatan Barrios and his group have experienced first-hand the hardship and the beauty of the Camino de Santiago, finding a lesson, a story and a deep connection to the land and its ancient traditions in every step. With Foncebadón behind them and new challenges ahead, the pilgrims continue on their way, knowing that every day brings them closer to their final destination, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Santiago de Compostela.
