Video Stage 23: Foncebadón to Ponferrada | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 23: Foncebadón to Ponferrada | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios shared his full experience on Stage 23 of the Camino de Santiago, covering a 27-kilometre route from Foncebadón to Ponferrada. He walked this stretch over the course of a month, from 26 April to 26 May 2022.
In the video, Jhonatan narrates the whole of Stage 23 towards Ponferrada in detail. They set out together from Foncebadón, and their first stop was the Cruz de Ferro, a short distance away. Following tradition, they left a small stone they had brought from Mexico. After the climb, they had to tackle a tough descent down to the village of El Acebo, where they stopped for lunch and a rest. The descent didn’t end there, though, as it was only halfway through the stretch. On reaching Molinaseca, they cooled their feet in the village river. Finally, they reached Ponferrada, where they arrived at their hostel to rest and get ready to enjoy the town’s beautiful architecture, followed by a delicious meal.
Stage 23: Foncebadón to Ponferrada with Jhonatan Barrios
Foncebadón is a small village high in the mountains of León, known for its mystical aura and stunning scenery. For Jhonatan Barrios, starting his day here meant not only beginning another leg of the Camino de Santiago Frances, but also gearing up for one of the most challenging and emotional stages of the route. Sitting at an altitude of 1,443 metres above sea level, Foncebadón offers pilgrims a panoramic view that sets the stage for a day full of adventure.
The Road to Ponferrada
From Foncebadón, the route to Ponferrada covers roughly 27 kilometres, a stretch that may seem short compared to other stages but presents its own unique challenges. This stage is known for its steep changes in elevation, especially the long, demanding descent into Ponferrada. The path runs through mountain scenery that shifts dramatically as the pilgrim moves forward, offering both natural beauty and a physical and mental test.
Jhonatan Barrios’s Experience at the Cruz de Ferro
An Iconic Ritual
One of the standout moments of this stage is reaching the Cruz de Ferro, one of the most iconic landmarks on the Camino Frances. Sitting at 1,500 metres of altitude, the Cruz de Ferro is a simple wooden post topped with an iron cross. This spot carries deep symbolic weight for pilgrims. Tradition holds that those who pass through must leave a stone brought from their place of origin, symbolising the release of a burden or personal struggle.
For Jhonatan, this was a moment of reflection and spiritual connection. With a stone he had carried from Mexico, Jhonatan approached the cross, laid it at its base, and gave the cross a gentle pat, as a sign of having left a burden behind. This simple yet deeply meaningful act is one of the most profound rituals pilgrims experience on the Camino de Santiago.
History and Legends of the Cruz de Ferro
The Cruz de Ferro is not just a spiritual landmark; it is also wrapped in myths and legends. Some say the cross helped the Romans mark snow levels during harsh winters, while others claim it was a sacred site as far back as Celtic times, when mounds of stones were built in honour of the god Mercury. Whatever the truth, it is undeniable that the Cruz de Ferro has stood as a symbol of faith and perseverance for centuries, something Jhonatan Barrios got to experience first-hand.
Manjarín: A Village Frozen in Time
Continuing along the route, Jhonatan Barrios reached Manjarín, a village that surprises visitors with its tiny size and unique character. Once home to a pilgrims’ hospital, this place is now almost a ghost village, with barely nine residents. Even so, its history and the peculiar character of its few inhabitants make it an unforgettable stop on the Camino.
In Manjarín, Jhonatan met the squire of the well-known hermit Tomás Martínez de Paz, nicknamed “the last Templar,” who has devoted his life to keeping the Templar tradition alive on the Camino de Santiago. Although Jhonatan wasn’t lucky enough to meet Tomás himself, he was able to chat with his squire, who offered a fascinating glimpse into life in this remote corner of the world.
Reflection and Connection in Manjarín
This encounter in Manjarín gave Jhonatan not only a pause along the way, but also a chance to reflect on the many different ways people connect with the Camino de Santiago. While some seek a spiritual experience, others, like Tomás and his squire, find in the Camino a way of life, a mission to keep alive the traditions and history of this age-old route.
The Challenging Descent to Ponferrada
San Miguel and Molinaseca: Gems of the Camino
After leaving Manjarín behind, Jhonatan Barrios began the descent through the Montes de León, a downhill stretch that tests both physical endurance and concentration. Reaching San Miguel, a picturesque village with a rich history dating back to the 13th century, gave Jhonatan a chance to catch his breath and take in the architecture and calm of the place.
The next stop was Molinaseca, a charming village that looks straight out of a medieval tale. Here, Jhonatan stopped to rest and enjoy a well-earned break by the river, where he could soak his tired feet in the cool, clear water. Molinaseca is known for its famous pilgrims’ bridge, a bridge of Roman origin that has witnessed thousands of pilgrims over the centuries.
The Puente de los Peregrinos and What It Means
The Puente de los Peregrinos is one of the most iconic sights in Molinaseca. Built in the 12th century and altered in the 18th and 20th centuries, this bridge is not only a masterpiece of medieval engineering, but also a symbol of the journey pilgrims make. Jhonatan Barrios crossed this bridge fully aware of the history and meaning it carries, an experience that undoubtedly left its mark on his memory.
Ponferrada: A Stage’s End Steeped in History
Arriving in Ponferrada
Finally, after a long day of walking, Jhonatan Barrios reached Ponferrada, a city marking the end of Stage 23 of the Camino Frances. Known for its impressive Templar castle, Ponferrada is a city rich in history and culture, offering pilgrims the perfect mix of rest and exploration.
On reaching the city, Jhonatan headed to the hostel to drop off his backpack, shower and wash his clothes. But before resting, he decided to explore the famous Castillo de los Templarios de Ponferrada, a fortress that has witnessed countless historical events since it was built in the 12th century.
The Castillo de los Templarios: A Medieval Gem
The Castle de Ponferrada is one of Ponferrada’s architectural gems. This imposing castle, begun in the 12th century and completed in the 13th, has been expanded and remodelled several times over the centuries, reflecting the strategic and symbolic importance it has held in the region.
Jhonatan Barrios wandered through the castle’s corridors and towers, marvelling at the history embedded in every stone. From the battlements, he was able to take in a panoramic view of the city and the Montes de León, a reminder of the tough day he had just completed and the wonders still awaiting him on his way to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Santiago de Compostela.
The Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Encina
Before ending his day, Jhonatan visited the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Encina, a beautiful example of religious architecture dating back to the 16th century. With its striking facade and interior adorned with sacred artwork, this basilica is a place of worship and pilgrimage, offering Jhonatan one last moment of reflection before wrapping up his stage.
Wrapping Up Stage 23 of the Camino de Santiago
Stage 23 of the Camino de Santiago, from Foncebadón to Ponferrada, is one of the most varied and demanding of the whole route. For Jhonatan Barrios, this stage was not only a physical challenge, but also a chance to connect with the history, culture and spirituality that make the Camino de Santiago a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
From mystical Foncebadón to historic Ponferrada, by way of the symbolic Cruz de Ferro and the charming villages of San Miguel and Molinaseca, every step taken on this stage was a lesson in perseverance, faith and human connection. Jhonatan Barrios’s journey is a reminder that the Camino de Santiago is far more than a physical route; it is a journey inward, a search for meaning and a celebration of the resilience of the human spirit.
With his mind and heart full of new experiences and lessons, Jhonatan carried on along the Camino, knowing there were still many stages left to walk, each with its own challenges and rewards. The Camino de Santiago Frances is, ultimately, a metaphor for life itself, where every day is a fresh opportunity to learn, grow and, above all, keep moving forward.
