Video Stage 27: Samos to Portomarin (via Sarria) | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 27: Samos to Portomarin (via Sarria) | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios shares more details about the exciting journey on Stage 27 of the Camino de Santiago, a route from Samos to Portomarin, covering a total of 36 kilometres. This stage, completed over the course of a month, from 26 April to 26 May 2022, left a deep impression on him.
In his account, Jhonatan shares the whole experience of this stretch towards Portomarin. During this stage, he marvelled at the stunning scenery of the Galicia region and took the chance to explore the famous city of Sarria. However, in Sarria, he came across some people known as “turigrinos” (a play on “tourist” and “pilgrim”), a term he explains in detail in his video. Jhonatan was surprised to see that most of the villages on the way to Portomarin were quite close to one another, which made the walk easier.
After walking more than 36 kilometres, Jhonatan finally reached Portomarin, a place that was relocated to avoid being flooded by the Rio Mino. At the hostel where he stayed, he found a dormitory so distinctive he affectionately nicknamed it “The Chicken Factory”. At the end of the day, he was able to relax and enjoy the hospitality of this charming town. It was, without doubt, an unforgettable experience that Jhonatan is excited to share.
Stage 27: Samos to Portomarin with Jhonatan Barrios
Stage 27 of the Camino de Santiago: From Samos to Portomarin, a Day of Challenges and Reflection
The Camino de Santiago Frances is a spiritual, physical and emotional journey that millions of pilgrims have walked over the centuries. Stage 27, which takes pilgrims from Samos to Portomarin, is one of the most significant and challenging on this route. Jhonatan Barrios, a dedicated pilgrim, shares his experiences and reflections on this 36-kilometre stage, where physical endurance and the spirit of perseverance are put to the test.
Leaving Samos: A Clear but Painful Start
Clear Skies and a Focused Mind
At 8:15 in the morning, under clear skies, Jhonatan Barrios sets off on Stage 27 of the Camino de Santiago. Having spent the night at a hostel next to the monastery in Samos, he begins his day towards Portomarin. The road ahead of him is not only a physical test, but also a mental and emotional challenge, especially due to the pain he has been experiencing in his foot and ankle for several stages now. This pain, which initially seemed like a passing discomfort, has become a constant companion on his journey.
The Fight Against Accumulated Fatigue
With more than 600 kilometres covered, the fatigue is palpable. Every step Jhonatan takes echoes with the tiredness built up over days of walking. Even so, his determination pushes him to carry on. Despite his exhaustion, he sets off on this 36-kilometre stage hoping to reach Portomarin before nightfall. Muscle pain and mental fatigue test his willpower, but he keeps going, driven by the goal of reaching Santiago de Compostela.
A Break to Recover: The Importance of Food and Rest
Enjoying a Spanish Omelette in Afon de las Bodas
Halfway along the route, Jhonatan and his travel companion decide to stop to refuel. At a small rural guesthouse called Afon de las Bodas, they enjoy a delicious Spanish omelette. For Fran, Jhonatan’s companion, this omelette is the best he’s tried on the whole Camino de Santiago, a welcome relief after having a bland, cold one in Trabadelo. This small moment of rest and culinary enjoyment gives them the strength they need to continue their day.
Reflections on the Camino: The Deeper Meaning of the Journey
As they continue on their way, Jhonatan reflects on the metaphor of life and death that the Camino de Santiago represents. For him, the road doesn’t end in Santiago; there is something beyond, something deeper that goes past the simple act of walking. This thought stays with him as he approaches Sarria, a place of great importance on the Camino de Santiago.
Arriving in Sarria: A Meeting Point Where Pilgrims Converge
Sarria: A Crossroads of Routes and Cultures
On reaching Sarria, Jhonatan realises the importance of this place on the Camino de Santiago. Although it isn’t mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus, Sarria has become a starting point for many pilgrims looking to complete the final 100 kilometres to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in the city of Santiago de Compostela, the minimum distance required to receive the Compostela. Here, routes cross paths: pilgrims from the Camino de Santiago Frances meet those coming from the Camino del Norte, creating a convergence of cultures and experiences.
The “Turigrino” Phenomenon
In Sarria, Jhonatan observes a new dynamic among pilgrims. He starts hearing the term “turigrino”, a blend of tourist and pilgrim. The term refers to those who walk the Camino de Santiago without carrying a backpack, cover just a few kilometres, or pay for a tour package to make the trip as part of a group. However, the term carries a deeper meaning: turigrinos, in Camino slang, are those who make the pilgrimage without understanding its true meaning. They show no respect for the hospitality of those who welcome them, nor for the solidarity and camaraderie that develop among genuine pilgrims.
Portomarin: History and Rebirth on the Banks of the Mino
The Old and the New Portomarin
After a tough walk, Jhonatan arrives in Portomarin, a place steeped in history and symbolism. This town, originally located on the banks of the river Mino, was moved stone by stone to its current site on Monte de Cristo in the 1960s, when the construction of a dam and reservoir threatened to flood the old town. Among the buildings that were saved is the old 12th-century Romanesque church of San Juan, which was rebuilt and renamed the Church of San Nicolas.
The Climb into Portomarin: A Final Challenge
To enter Portomarin, Jhonatan has to climb the famous steps above the arches of the old medieval bridge. This final effort of the day is a reminder of the constant exertion demanded by the Camino de Santiago. As he climbs, he reflects on the challenges he has faced and how each step has brought him closer not only to his destination, but also to a greater understanding of himself and the purpose of his pilgrimage.
Resting at the “Chicken Factory”
Finally, Jhonatan reaches the hostel in Portomarin, where he will spend the night. This hostel, known among pilgrims as the “chicken factory” because of how tightly packed its bunks are, offers a unique experience. Despite the conditions, Jhonatan and his companion decide to enjoy a good seafood dinner and a beer, knowing that rest is crucial for facing the next stage of the Camino. The night at this hostel is a chance to reflect on what they’ve been through and prepare mentally and physically for the challenges still ahead.
Final Thoughts on Stage 27 of the Camino Frances: The Road Is the Destination
The True Spirit of the Pilgrim
Throughout this stage, Jhonatan has experienced not only the physical challenge of the Camino de Santiago, but also its deep spiritual meaning. The pain, the fatigue, the small joys and the moments of reflection are all part of a transformative experience that goes beyond simply reaching Santiago. With every step, Jhonatan has learned that the Camino de Santiago is much more than a physical route; it is a journey towards self-knowledge, personal growth and understanding the true spirit of the pilgrim.
The Camino de Santiago: More Than a Destination, a Process
As he ends his day in Portomarin, Jhonatan understands that the Camino de Santiago is not just a destination, but an ongoing process of growth and learning. The difference between a tourist and a pilgrim, between simply “walking on the road” and “entering the road”, lies in the attitude with which each stage is approached. As a saying Jhonatan read at a hostel puts it:
“There are two kinds of pilgrims: the one who walks on the road, and the one who enters the road”.
This understanding is what turns every stage of the Camino into a unique, unforgettable experience.
The Camino de Santiago, and in particular the stage from Samos to Portomarin, is a metaphor for life itself. Every step, every challenge, and every reflection are part of a broader journey towards personal and spiritual fulfilment. Through his experience, Jhonatan Barrios shows us that the true value of the Camino lies not in reaching the end, but in the journey itself and the lessons learned along the way.
