Zapatones, the Eternal Pilgrim: The Life of an Emblematic Figure of Santiago and Xacobeo Culture

18 Jul 2024 5 min read
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Zapatones, the Eternal Pilgrim: The Life of an Emblematic Figure of Santiago and Xacobeo Culture

The Cidade da Cultura witnessed a moving event: the launch of the book “Zapatones, el eterno peregrino” (Zapatones, the Eternal Pilgrim), written by María José Lorenzo. This book tells the life story of Juan Carlos Lema Balsas, known as Zapatones, a beloved figure of Santiago de Compostela and a symbol of the culture of the Camino Frances. Through a rich and detailed narrative, Lorenzo captures the essence of Zapatones and his impact on the Compostela community.

The Figure of Zapatones

A Symbol of Hospitality

Zapatones, always with his cloak, pilgrim’s hat, scallop shell and staff, became an icon of hospitality in Santiago de Compostela. His presence in the Praza do Obradoiro welcomed pilgrims and tourists alike, immortalising their arrival in exchange for a few coins. His image, captured in thousands of photographs, symbolises the welcoming essence of the Camino de Santiago.

A Life Marked by Adversity

Juan Carlos Lema Balsas did not have an easy life. He spent his childhood at the Casa Cuna orphanage in A Coruña and in several religious care homes. Despite these difficult beginnings, he found his path as a waiter. Zapatones faced many hardships, but his resilience and character made him a much-loved figure to many.

The Book Launch

An Event Full of Emotion

The launch of “Zapatones, el eterno peregrino” was more than a simple book introduction. It was a tribute to Zapatones, a recognition of his legacy and his impact on Xacobeo culture. The author, María José Lorenzo, was joined by prominent figures such as Galicia’s Director of Tourism, Xosé Merelles, journalist Moncho Lemos, the Chancellor of the Archdiocese of Santiago, Elisardo Temprano, and the book’s editor, Gonzalo Sáenz.

Lanzamiento del libro acerca del peregrino Zapatones Camino de Santiago Frances 2

Notable Remarks

Xosé Merelles highlighted the importance of Zapatones as an “emblematic figure tied to Xacobeo culture and present in the collective imagination”. He praised María José Lorenzo’s dedication in portraying Zapatones and her skill in blending biographical detail with an engaging narrative.

Zapatones’ Personal Story

Childhood and Youth

Zapatones spent his childhood at the Casa Cuna orphanage in A Coruña, an experience that profoundly shaped his life. His time in various religious care homes moulded his character and resilience. He found his path as a waiter, a trade that allowed him to connect with many people and become a beloved figure in Santiago.

Struggles and Resilience

Despite turning to alcohol to cope with his problems, Zapatones showed a remarkable capacity for forgiveness and for finding peace. The story of his life is full of ups and downs, but his perseverance and good heart always prevailed.

The Spiritual Perspective of the Camino de Santiago

Xacobeo 93

Xacobeo 93 was a pivotal event that boosted tourism in Galicia. Zapatones witnessed this phenomenon, which helped put Galicia on the map alongside events such as the Barcelona 92 Olympics and the Seville Expo. The Camino de Santiago has become a major sociocultural landmark, and Zapatones was an integral part of that story.

Social and Economic Impact

The Camino de Santiago has left a deep mark on the society and economy of Galicia. With more than 243,000 people collecting their Compostela this year, the Camino remains a major driver of tourism. Zapatones, with his iconic figure, has contributed significantly to this phenomenon.

“Zapatones, el peregrino eterno”: A Story Revealed

Revelations from the Book

In the book, readers will discover intimate details of Zapatones’ life, such as his birthplace and his relationship with his mother. María José Lorenzo also explores the love story between Zapatones and Marta, adding another layer to his story.

Anecdotes and Encounters

During the launch, María José Lorenzo shared anecdotes about Zapatones, including his encounters with prominent figures such as the singer Julio Iglesias. These stories not only humanise Zapatones but also offer a unique glimpse into his life and his impact on Compostela’s culture.

Zapatones’ Influence on Xacobeo Culture

A Beloved Figure

Zapatones is fondly remembered by the people of Santiago. His presence in the Praza do Obradoiro, his way of welcoming pilgrims, and his resilient spirit have made him a lasting symbol of the city.

A Lasting Legacy

Through her book, María José Lorenzo has immortalised the life of Zapatones, ensuring that his legacy endures. The author is already working on a sequel, delving further into the life of this iconic figure.

Introducing Zapatones to the World

A Media Phenomenon

The book launch drew the attention of media outlets and public figures, underscoring the importance of Zapatones in Xacobeo culture. The presence of the President of the Parliament of Galicia, Miguel Ángel Santalices, at the event highlights the official recognition of Zapatones’ impact.

Public Reception

The book’s excellent reception among the public reflects the affection and admiration people hold for Zapatones. This tribute has resonated with many, reaffirming the relevance of his story in the collective memory of Santiago.

Launch of the Book Zapatones, el eterno peregrino

“Zapatones, el eterno peregrino” is not just a book; it is a tribute to a man who, despite his struggles and hardships, left an indelible mark on Santiago de Compostela and on the culture of the Camino de Santiago. María José Lorenzo’s work not only celebrates Zapatones’ life but also highlights the values and essence of the Camino, reminding us of the importance of hospitality, resilience and the human spirit.

This book is an invitation to learn more about the story of Zapatones, a figure whose life and legacy continue to inspire many. His presence, still felt in the Praza do Obradoiro, remains a symbol of welcome and hospitality for all the pilgrims who arrive in Santiago, keeping his spirit alive within Xacobeo culture.

Synopsis of the Book Zapatones, el peregrino eterno

Zapatones, el peregrino eterno, tells the story of Juan Carlos Balsas Lema, better known as Zapatones in Galicia and beyond, where he earned fame as the host of the pilgrims who completed the Camino in Santiago de Compostela. In the Praza do Obradoiro, he dressed as a medieval pilgrim, posing for photos that walkers kept as souvenirs in exchange for a few coins. This fictionalised account centres on the high point of Xacobeo 93, when the Xunta, under the leadership of don Manuel Fraga, hired Julio Iglesias as its ambassador, placing Galicia and Santiago de Compostela at the centre of the world’s attention. During that time, Zapatones lived intensely, rubbing shoulders with prominent figures. However, once the event was over, he returned to his melancholy routine. It is then that he decides to set out on the Camino Frances, living through experiences in historic, mysterious, spiritual and magical places…


Buen Camino, pilgrims!


Camino de Santiago Frances
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