Video Stage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Stage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios invites you to discover and enjoy the fascinating Stage 11 of the Camino de Santiago Frances, which runs from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, covering a distance of 24 kilometres. This stage was part of a longer journey made between 26 April and 26 May 2022.
Along this stretch, Jhonatan and his group explore charming villages on the way to San Juan de Ortega. Each of these places has its own history well worth knowing. They also have the privilege of crossing the majestic Montes de Oca and the picturesque village of San Juan de Ortega. The experience is full of natural beauty and cultural heritage, offering moments of discovery and unforgettable memories.
Stage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios left Belorado, leaving the hostel behind, and began moving away from the village of Belorado. His destination was San Juan de Ortega, tackling stage number 10, over twenty kilometres long, under a clear sky. Although the sun was already up, the cool morning air was a welcome relief. As he made his way along the path, Jhonatan admired the murals decorating Belorado, which he felt were very representative of the place. He felt grateful for the experience of having spent the night at the Cuatro Cantones hostel, where he enjoyed a 90s arcade machine. It brought back memories of playing those same video games with his brother.
After walking a little over four and a half kilometres along an old road, Jhonatan reached the first village, Tosantos. In the distance, a church stood out at the top of a hill, dedicated to Santa María. This was the rock-cut hermitage of Santa María de Todos Santos, built in the 9th century or earlier, with a 16th-century facade and a bell tower added in the 18th century. He knew that the Camino de Santiago had passed through this village since the 11th century.
Continuing on his way, Jhonatan reached Villavieja, where he decided to stop for breakfast next to the Church of Saint Stephen, famous for its spring which, according to local legend, revives the weary and cures all manner of ailments. Then, in Espinosa del Camino, a small village, he was able to see the ruins of the old Mozarabic monastery of San Félix. It is said that the remains of Diego Rodríguez de Porcelos, founder of the city of Burgos, rest there. Jhonatan was determined to cross the imposing Montes de Oca, knowing he would climb them despite the blisters on his feet.
In Villafranca Montes de Oca, Jhonatan stopped to take in the old pilgrim hospital of San Antonio Abad, now converted into a hotel and hostel, founded in 1380. Next to it stood the Church of Santiago Apóstol, with statues of the apostle dressed as a pilgrim and the largest scallop shell on the Camino de Santiago. Villafranca, destroyed in the 8th century by a Muslim attack, rose again as a landmark site on the Camino de Santiago and served as the starting point for the climb into the Montes de Oca.
Jhonatan recalled that the Códice Calixtino tells of a miracle that took place in the Montes de Oca in the year 1108, when a young man travelling with his family to venerate the remains of Santiago died while crossing them, but was brought back to life through the apostle’s intercession. As he crossed the Montes de Oca, he thought about the old warnings of the dangers of the area, known for its steep slopes and the wrongdoers who used to lie in wait for pilgrims. Today, the forest offered peace and quiet, although Jhonatan described the Montes de Oca as never-ending rather than imposing, over the 12 kilometres separating Villafranca from San Juan de Ortega.
Finally, Jhonatan arrived in San Juan de Ortega, where he was able to admire the church of Saint Nicholas of Bari, built in the 12th century by the Blessed Juan de Ortega. Jhonatan knew that this man, whose original name was Juan de Velázquez, was a disciple of Saint Dominic of the Causeway and devoted his life to helping pilgrims. The church was built in gratitude for surviving a shipwreck following his pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and the remains of Saint John of Ortega himself rest within it.
After enjoying a delicious pizza, Jhonatan and his friend Fran said goodbye to Lety and Rafa, who had shared stages 10 and 11 with them. As they couldn’t find an available hostel in San Juan de Ortega, Jhonatan and Fran decided to walk a few more kilometres to the village of Atapuerca, where they would spend the night and get ready for stage number 12 (Video Stage 12: Atapuerca to Burgos with Jhonatan Barrios).
