Video Stage 29: Palas de Rei to Arzúa | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 29: Palas de Rei to Arzúa | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios invites his readers to follow his journey through Stage 29 of the Camino de Santiago, covering the stretch between Palas de Rei and Arzúa. This 28.5-kilometre stretch, walked between 26 April and 26 May 2022, offers a full immersion in the beauty and challenge of this iconic route.
Along the way, Jhonatan Barrios and his group experienced the stunning beauty of the enchanted forests surrounding Arzúa. The decision to stop in an intermediate village was made based on their accumulated tiredness and the notoriously changeable weather in Galicia. Along the path, they discovered picturesque villages that still preserve traces of ancient Roman roads, adding a historical touch to their journey.
In Melide, famous for its octopus restaurants, they didn’t miss the chance to try the renowned Galician-style octopus, especially enjoying the experience at Pulpería A Garnacha. After facing the rain and getting through the steep ups and downs of the route, they finally reached the hostel exhausted but satisfied, ready to rest and prepare for the next stage.
The Camino de Santiago and the Camino de Santiago Frances have given Jhonatan Barrios and his group unforgettable experiences, which he wants to share with his followers. He invites everyone to join this journey full of adventures and discoveries in the fascinating land of Galicia.
Stage 29: Palas de Rei to Arzúa with Jhonatan Barrios
Stage 29 of the Camino Frances: A Day from Palas de Rei to Arzúa
The Camino de Santiago, with its rich history and unmatched beauty, presents a series of challenges and rewards for pilgrims setting out on this spiritual and physical adventure. Stage 29, running from Palas de Rei to Arzúa, is one of the longest and most demanding of the Galician stretch. This roughly 30-kilometre route offers a combination of enchanting scenery, historic villages and the chance to reflect on the journey towards the end. Jhonatan Barrios, a pilgrim taking on this stage, shares his experience through a day full of challenges and discoveries.
Setting Out from Palas de Rei
A Cold Start and Morning Mist
The day begins early in Palas de Rei, a quiet Galician town that serves as the starting point for this tough stage of the Camino Frances. Jhonatan Barrios leaves Albergue Zendoira, facing the morning mist and the cold that marks the first hours of the day. This wintry atmosphere adds a layer of mystery to the landscape, wrapping the paths in an almost magical mood.
Along the route, Jhonatan and his fellow peregrinos face a 25.5-kilometre day, a distance that, combined with the changeable weather, promises to test their endurance and determination. The first part of the journey unfolds in a stunning natural setting, marked by dense, green forests that seem straight out of a fairy tale.
The Beauty of the Enchanted Forests
As the day goes on, the group heads deeper into the Galician forests, where the natural surroundings provide both visual and emotional relief. Paths lined with tall trees, covered in moss and wrapped in mist, offer a calm, contemplative refuge. This experience allows pilgrims to disconnect from the hustle of everyday life and connect with the essence of nature.
Galicia’s enchanted forests, with their winding paths and lush vegetation, are one of the most memorable features of the Camino in this region. Every step reveals new shades of Galicia’s natural beauty, creating an immersive experience that goes beyond the simple act of walking.
A Stop in San Xiao: History and Local Culture
The Importance of Galician Hórreos
After several hours of walking, Jhonatan and his group reach the small hamlet of San Xiao do Camiño. This picturesque spot stands out for its traditional hórreos, structures typical of Galicia used to store and preserve grain. Hórreos, with their distinctive design, are raised on pillars to protect the food from damp, insects and rodents. These buildings are not only functional, but also represent an important part of Galicia’s architectural heritage.
The Church of San Xiao: A Link to History
In San Xiao, pilgrims also find the local church, a historic building founded in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 18th. This sacred place offers a spiritual break and a chance to reflect on the road travelled so far. The church, with its Romanesque architecture and history, is a testament to the region’s deep religious tradition and to the importance of the Camino de Santiago in local life.
Passing Through O Coto and O Leboreiro: A Journey Through History
Arriving in O Coto
Jhonatan’s next destination on the route is O Coto, the first town in A Coruña province. This small village marks a shift in the landscape and in the history of the Camino. O Coto, with its welcoming atmosphere and friendly residents, serves as a reminder of the rich history running through every corner of the Camino de Santiago Frances.
O Leboreiro: Traces of the Roman Past
Continuing the route, Jhonatan reaches O Leboreiro, a village known for its ancient Roman road. This stretch of the Camino is not only a showcase of Roman engineering, but also a tangible link to the past. The 12th-century Romanesque church in O Leboreiro is another point of interest, giving peregrinos a deeper insight into the region’s religious history.
The Experience with Pilgrim Dogs
A curious and heartwarming aspect of the Camino is the presence of pilgrims travelling with their dogs. Although not all hostels accept animals, those that do offer a valuable service to four-legged travellers. Jhonatan watches as some pilgrims walk alongside their loyal canine companions, adding an element of camaraderie and solidarity to the journey.
A Stop on the Way: Melide and Galician-Style Octopus
Food on the Camino: A Must-Do Stop
One of the moments pilgrims most look forward to is the chance to enjoy the local food. In Melide, Jhonatan stops to try the famous pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus), a traditional Galician dish that is a true feast for the senses. Pulpería A Garnacha, known for its excellent octopus, becomes the ideal spot for a well-earned break.
Pulpo a la gallega, served with olive oil, coarse salt and paprika, is a delight not to be missed. Paired with a lively chat with other pilgrims, this lunch in Melide is a chance to recharge and share experiences with those on the same journey.
Meeting Other Pilgrims in Melide
The stop in Melide also gives Jhonatan the chance to meet old friends and make new ones. Interaction with other peregrinos is a key part of the Camino experience, and these moments of meeting and conversation enrich the journey in a meaningful way.
Arriving in Arzúa: A Close Finish and a Well-Earned Rest
The Final Push: From Ribadiso to Arzúa
With a full stomach and renewed energy, Jhonatan continues his journey towards Arzúa. The final stretch includes crossing a medieval bridge in Ribadiso, a historic landmark marking how close they are to the end of this long stage. Although tiredness begins to take its toll, the scenery and the closeness of the final destination give the push needed to reach the finish line.
The Decision to Rest Instead of Continuing
On reaching the outskirts of Arzúa, Jhonatan faces a decision: carry on to the town centre or stop at a nearby hostel to rest. He chooses the latter, picking Albergue Milpes, which offers a range of comforts for a restorative night. The hostel has a dining room, bathrooms, a laundry room and shelves for leaving shoes, providing everything needed for a peaceful night.
Getting Ready for the Final Stage
With stage 29 complete, Jhonatan takes the time he needs to relax and get ready for the next day. The night at Albergue Milpes is a chance to recover his strength and reflect on the road travelled so far. Being close to Arzúa marks the end of a significant stage and the start of the final leg of the journey towards the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in the city of Santiago de Compostela.
Final Thoughts on Stage 29 of the Camino Frances: The Value of the Camino
A Transformative Journey
The Camino de Santiago, especially on stage 29, is more than a simple physical route; it is a transformative experience that challenges and enriches those who walk it. Every kilometre covered is a chance to reflect, connect with nature and with other pilgrims, and discover new sides of oneself.
The Meaning of Rest and Community
The rest in Arzúa and interaction with other pilgrims highlight the importance of community and mutual support on the Camino. These pauses allow peregrinos to recover their strength and prepare mentally for the end of the journey, underscoring the value of every stage of the Camino.
The Final Goal: Santiago de Compostela
With the end of stage 29 in sight, Jhonatan and his fellow pilgrims prepare to face the final kilometres towards Santiago de Compostela. The culmination of this epic journey represents not only reaching a physical destination, but also the culmination of a personal odyssey full of challenges, lessons and memorable moments.
Stage 29 of the Camino Frances is a journey that combines physical effort, natural beauty and cultural experiences. For Jhonatan Barrios, as for many peregrinos, this stretch of the Camino reflects the very essence of the Camino de Santiago: a test of endurance and a chance for self-exploration and connection with others. With every step, pilgrims draw closer not only to their final destination, but also to a deeper understanding of themselves and the world around them.
