Video Stage 21: León to Astorga with Jhonatan Barrios

17 Dec 2022 4 min read
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Video Stage 21: León to Astorga (2 stages in 1) | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios

Video Stage 21: León to Astorga (2 stages in 1) | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios

Jhonatan Barrios enthusiastically recounts the exciting experience of Stage 21 of the Camino de Santiago, covering a 47-kilometre route from León to Astorga. This stretch was walked between 26 April and 26 May 2022.

In the video, Jhonatan passionately narrates his journey to Astorga during this stage. This day was particularly meaningful for him, as it was the first time he had walked this stage together with his girlfriend. Meeting a Spanish pilgrim friend in Villadangos del Páramo, who had already reached Astorga, also gave them great motivation to complete the stretch and share the final kilometres together. The experience turned out to be unique and unforgettable. Along the way, Jhonatan and his companion had the chance to explore the charming city of Astorga, admiring its imposing castle and majestic cathedral.

Stage 21: León to Astorga with Jhonatan Barrios

Jhonatan Barrios begins his adventure from the Saint Francis of Assisi hostel in León, heading for Villadangos del Páramo, a 20-kilometre stretch. This leg marks Stage 21 of the Camino de Santiago and brings both challenges and moments of reflection. Setting out from León is a significant step, not just in terms of distance, but also for the emotional and spiritual connection Jhonatan feels while walking alongside his girlfriend.

Leaving León: First Steps and Expectations

The sky is partly clear, a welcome relief after the previous day’s rain. Jhonatan and his companion head towards the centre of León, passing iconic landmarks such as León Cathedral and the Basilica of Saint Isidore. This opening stretch is crucial for settling into a rhythm and acclimatising to the route.

Crossing the Heart of León

León Cathedral, a gem of Gothic architecture, and the Basilica of Saint Isidore, an outstanding example of Romanesque art, are just some of the historic treasures they encounter along the way. The Basilica, built between the 11th and 12th centuries, is especially significant for its architecture and its ties to the history of Saint Isidore of Seville. Pilgrims must cross several historic bridges, including the one over the Río Bernesga, before leaving the city centre.

The Route to Villadangos del Páramo: Challenges and Beauty

Choosing the Route: Northern Variant vs. Southern Variant

An important decision along the way is choosing between the Northern Variant and the Southern Variant. The Northern Variant follows a more historic route, though it passes through urban and industrial areas. The Southern Variant, on the other hand, ventures further into rural areas, offering a greener and quieter setting. Jhonatan and his girlfriend choose the Northern Variant, drawn by their interest in the Camino’s historic legacy.

The Village of La Virgen del Camino and the Medieval Bridge

Along the way, they pass through the village of La Virgen del Camino, famous for its basilica dedicated to the Virgin. This modernist church, built in the 20th century, replaces an earlier church and is a key point where pilgrims must choose their route. They also cross the medieval bridge at Hospital de Órbigo, one of the longest on the Camino, dating back to the 13th century.

Arrival in Astorga: History and Culture

After a long day combining two stages into one, Jhonatan and his girlfriend reach Astorga. This city, with more than 2,000 years of history, is known for its rich cultural and architectural heritage. The journey has been exhausting, but arriving in Astorga offers a chance to rest and explore.

The Episcopal Palace and Santa María Cathedral

One of the highlights of Astorga is the Episcopal Palace, designed by the famous modernist architect Antoni Gaudí. Although Gaudí left the project unfinished, the building remains a symbol of the city’s architectural legacy. The Santa María Cathedral, built in the 11th century and expanded through the 18th, is also an impressive testament to the art and history of the region.

Final Thoughts on Stage 21 of the Camino Frances and Preparing for the Next Stage

Jhonatan and his companion end the day with dinner at a local restaurant and a well-earned rest at the Siervas de María hostel. Although the decision to combine two stages into one was challenging, the experience of walking alongside their friend Fran and exploring Astorga proved rewarding. With the next stages in sight, they are ready to continue their journey with renewed energy.

Preparing for Stage 22

With Stage 22 (Video Stage 22: Astorga to Foncebadón with Jhonatan Barrios) on the horizon, Jhonatan and his team are getting ready for new challenges and discoveries. The Camino de Santiago remains a journey of transformation and learning, and every step brings them closer to their final destination at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Santiago de Compostela.


Buen Camino, pilgrims!


Camino de Santiago Frances
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