Camino Frances Stage Route: Portomarín – Palas de Rei (24.8 km)
This stage of the Camino de Santiago Frances runs from Portomarín to Palas de Rei over 24.8 kilometres of constant ups and downs across the Sierra de Ligonde, passing the Iron Age hillfort of Castromaior and one of the oldest wayside crosses (cruceiros) on the Camino, next to the church of Ligonde.
KM 0
Portomarín
The path descends from Portomarín to the Torres river before a long, gradual climb — partly alongside the LU-633 road — towards Gonzar and the Sierra de Ligonde.
7.3 km
8.5 km
Castromaior
Right next to the path stands one of the best-preserved <strong>castros</strong> (Iron Age hillforts) on the whole route, with visible walls and circular stone houses. Romanesque church of Santa María.
11.5 km
O Hospital
The name Hospital da Cruz recalls an old pilgrim hospital that once stood here. The N-540 road is crossed via a footbridge.
13 km
Vendas de Narón
A tiny hamlet with the chapel of La Magdalena, said to be the site of an early medieval battle between Christians and Moors. The Sierra de Ligonde begins here.
16 km
Ligonde
A village that was once an important stop — both Charles V and Philip II stayed overnight here — with a Romanesque church and an old pilgrims cemetery.
16.7 km
Airexe
Next to the church of Santiago de Ligonde stands one of the <strong>oldest wayside crosses (cruceiros) on the Camino</strong>, carved with Adam and Eve and a Pietà.
19 km
Lestedo
A hamlet with the church of Santiago. The path rolls gently through meadows and eucalyptus woods on towards Palas de Rei.
24.8 km
Palas de Rei
Palas de Rei — “the kings palace,” possibly named after a residence of the Visigothic king Witiza — marked the end of a day stage in the <em>Codex Calixtinus</em>. The church of San Tirso still preserves a Romanesque doorway.
Portomarín – Palas de Rei: Complete Guide
Stage Profile: Distance, Elevation and Difficulty
Distance: 24.8 km. Walking time: 5h 15min – 6h 15min. Elevation: around +450 m and –350 m. Difficulty: moderate. There are no long climbs, but the constant ups and downs across the Sierra de Ligonde and the hills that follow add up to real fatigue. The initial climb out of Portomarín, though gradual, is the most demanding part. Services are very frequent. Ridable by bike.
The Castromaior Hillfort and the Galicia Before the Camino
Castros — fortified Iron Age settlements — dot the whole of Galicia. Castromaior is one of the largest and best-preserved that can be visited right off the path: a settlement dating from the 4th century BC to the 1st century AD, with its walls and circular stone houses still standing. It is a reminder that people have lived and travelled through these hills for millennia, long before the pilgrims. The stage also crosses the Sierra de Ligonde, a historic stretch dotted with old pilgrim hospitals and cruceiros.
What to See: Monuments and Heritage
The Castromaior hillfort (free entry); the Ligonde cruceiro, one of the oldest on the Camino; the Romanesque churches of Santa María de Castromaior and Santiago de Ligonde; and in Palas de Rei, the Romanesque doorway of the church of San Tirso.
A Bit of History
The Sierra de Ligonde was once a demanding stretch of the Camino, with several pilgrim hospitals along the way; Emperor Charles V and his son Philip II both stayed overnight in Ligonde. Palas de Rei closes the eleventh day stage of the itinerary described in the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, already within reach of Compostela.
Local Food
Galician cuisine: pulpo á feira (Galician-style octopus) — whose capital, Melide, awaits tomorrow — caldo (broth), lacón con grelos (pork with turnip greens), empanada and, in winter, androlla and cocido (stew). For dessert, tarta de Santiago. Wine from the Ribeira Sacra.
Practical Tips
Do not skip the Castromaior hillfort — it is right off the path. There are bars in almost every hamlet. Palas de Rei fills up at night, like the whole of this stretch: book ahead. Tomorrow stage to Arzúa is long (about 28 km) and passes through Melide — plan a stop there for octopus.
Services and Accommodation by Village
Listings published in our guide for the villages on this stage. Vendas de Narón, Ligonde and Lestedo do not yet have accommodation or heritage listings in the guide.
Portomarín
Hostels
- Albergue Aqua Portomarín
- Albergue de la Xunta de Galicia Portomarín
- Albergue Ferramenteiro
- Huellas Albergue Turístico
Accommodation
Churches
Gonzar
Hostels
Churches
Castromaior
Churches
O Hospital
Hostels
Airexe
Hostels
Churches
Palas de Rei
Hostels
Accommodation
Churches