Sarria – Portomarín (22.4 km)

Route of the Camino Frances stage: Sarria – Portomarín (22.4 km)

This stage of the Camino de Santiago Frances is the busiest of the entire route: most pilgrims wanting the Compostela join in at Sarria. It is 22.4 kilometres through green Galicia’s corredoiras and hórreos, passing the 100 km marker, to Portomarín, the village that was reborn on a hilltop when the old one was submerged.

Sarria – Portomarín: Complete Guide

Stage Profile: Distance, Elevation and Difficulty

Distance: 22.4 km. Walking time: 5–6 hours. Elevation change: about +380 m and –470 m. Difficulty: moderate. Typical Galician terrain: constant ups and downs along corredoiras among oaks, meadows and hamlets, with no long climbs but plenty of accumulated elevation change. The final descent to the Miño is steep. This is, by far, the busiest stage of the entire Camino. It is rideable by bike, with some stone and mud sections.

From Sarria: The Last 100 Kilometres

To earn the Compostela you must walk at least the last 100 km, and Sarria is the last town with a train and bus service beyond that line: that is why thousands of pilgrims start their Camino here. The atmosphere changes — more people, more groups, more bustle — and the famous 100 km marker appears. From Sarria you need to stamp your credencial twice a day. It is worth taking the crowds in stride and enjoying the scenery of hórreos, moss-covered stone walls and oak and eucalyptus woods.

What to See: Monuments and Heritage

The Romanesque church of Santiago de Barbadelo; the 100 km marker; the church of Santa María de Ferreiros in Mirallos; and in Portomarín, the fortress-church of San Xoán rebuilt stone by stone on the hilltop, with the masons’ numbering still visible on the stones, and the entrance steps beneath the arch of the old capela das Neves. When the reservoir’s water level drops, the ruins of the old village and its bridge emerge.

A Bit of History

The old Portomarín, on the banks of the Miño, had two quarters — San Xoán and San Pedro — joined by a great medieval bridge, and was a stronghold of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. In 1962, the construction of the Belesar reservoir condemned it to disappear underwater; its churches and some noble houses were saved by being moved, and the village was reborn on the hill.

Local Cuisine

Portomarín is famous for its aguardiente (orujo), with its own festival at Easter, and for eel empanada. There is also pulpo á feira, caldo gallego, lacón con grelos and tarta de Santiago, which by now appears on every menu. Wine from Chantada and the Ribeira Sacra.

Practical Tips

Leave Sarria early, both for the heat and for the competition for beds: from here on it is worth booking accommodation almost daily in high season. There are cafés in almost every hamlet, though they fill up. Do not miss the 100 km marker. And remember the two daily stamps in your credencial. Portomarín has a Xunta hostel and many private ones.

Services and Accommodation by Village

Listings published in our guide for the villages on this stage. Peruscallo, A Brea, Morgade, Mirallos, Mercadoiro, Vilachá do not yet have accommodation or heritage listings in the guide.

Sarria

Hostels

• Albergue Credencial Sarria
• Albergue Monasterio de La Magdalena Sarria
• Albergue Oasis Sarria
• Pensión Albergue A Pedra

Accommodation

• Pensión O Camiño Sarria
• Pensión Río Sarria

Churches

• Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario Sarria
• Iglesia de San Salvador de Vilar de Sarria
• Iglesia de San Salvador Sarria
• Iglesia de Santa Mariña

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Barbadelo

Hostels

• Albergue de la Xunta de Galicia de Barbadelo

Churches

• Iglesia de Santiago de Barbadelo

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Portomarín

Hostels

• Albergue Aqua Portomarín
• Albergue de la Xunta de Galicia Portomarín
• Albergue Ferramenteiro
• Huellas Albergue Turístico

Accommodation

• Hotel Ferramenteiro de Portomarin
• Hotel Villa Jardín
• Pension Perez Portomarín

Churches

• Iglesia de San Nicolás
• Iglesia de San Pedro Portomarín