Video Stage 18: Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 18: Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios invites you to join him on Stage 18 of the Camino de Santiago, from Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino, covering a total of 25 kilometres. This particular stretch was part of a longer journey he completed between 26 April and 26 May 2022.
In the video he shares, Jhonatan recounts his journey from Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino, noting that he added an extra 10 kilometres once past Sahagún. As a result, he covered more distance than planned for that day. Along the way, he also had the chance to explore the historic town of Sahagún, recognised as the epicentre of the Camino Frances. From this point on, Jhonatan is in the second half of his pilgrimage towards the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Santiago de Compostela.
Stage 18: Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios’s Journey: A Day on the Camino de Santiago
The Camino de Santiago, one of the most famous pilgrimage routes in the world, is a journey that transforms both body and spirit. In this article, we follow Jhonatan Barrios on his journey through stage 18 of the Camino Frances, from Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino, a day full of breathtaking scenery, rich history and unforgettable experiences.
Leaving Ledigos: The Start of the Stage
A New Day on the Camino Frances
At 7:10am, Jhonatan Barrios leaves the hostel in Ledigos, ready to take on a special stage of his pilgrimage. The day promises to be long, with 25 kilometres to cover, 10 more than originally planned. The day’s route, which starts in Ledigos and was meant to end in Sahagún, extends onward to Bercianos del Real Camino, a small village a few kilometres further on.
Jhonatan, like many other peregrinos, has decided to get ahead on part of the next stage to make the most of the good weather and the morning’s energy. The sun is just beginning to appear on the horizon, and the road awaits him, promising discoveries and moments of reflection.
From Ledigos to Terradillos de los Templarios
The first stretch of the day takes Jhonatan through Terradillos de los Templarios, a small village steeped in history. This place, known for its brick and adobe buildings, was once a stronghold of the Orden del Temple, one of the most influential military orders of the Middle Ages.
Terradillos de los Templarios is not just a curious name; it reflects its glorious past. Local legend has it that the last Templars who lived here buried a hen that laid golden eggs atop a nearby hill. Although Jhonatan knows it is just a story, he cannot help feeling a connection to the mysteries of the place as he walks through its streets.
Sahagún: The Heart of the Camino
Arrival in Sahagún
After leaving Terradillos de los Templarios and crossing some open fields, Jhonatan reaches Sahagún, an important landmark on the Camino Frances. This town, located in the province of León, is known as the link between the Camino de Madrid and the Camino Frances. Sahagún’s history is rich and varied, marked by the discovery of the relics of the brothers Facundo and Primitivo in the 9th century, and the arrival of the Order of Cluny in the 11th century, which cemented its importance.
In Sahagún, pilgrims can obtain the “Carta Peregrina“, a certificate marking that they have reached the halfway point of the Camino Frances. Jhonatan does not miss the chance to stop for breakfast and stamp his credential at the Cluny municipal hostel, an old building that has been carefully renovated to welcome travellers.
Exploring Sahagún
Although Sahagún is not Jhonatan’s final destination on this stage, he decides to explore the town a little more before continuing on his way. The ruins of old monasteries and the Romanesque churches remind him of the spiritual and cultural power this town once held. Every corner of Sahagún seems to tell a story, from the old cobbled streets to the walls covered in symbols of the Camino.
Jhonatan takes a close look at a mural on one of Sahagún‘s building facades. The mural depicts a scallop shell, an iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago, which pilgrims carry as a talisman and guide. This artistic depiction reminds him of the shell he himself carries on his backpack, a symbol of his commitment to the journey.
Towards Bercianos del Real Camino
San Nicolás del Real Camino: The Last Stop in Palencia
After setting off again, Jhonatan continues on towards San Nicolás del Real Camino, the last town in the Province of Palencia before entering the Province of León. This small village is known for its 12th-century pilgrim hospital, once run by the Order of Saint Augustine and dedicated to Saint Nicholas, hence the village’s name.
The hospital, now in ruins, was a place where pilgrims and lepers received care on their journey towards Santiago de Compostela. Although the hospital no longer exists, the history and legacy of the place live on among the residents and the pilgrims who pass through.
Crossing the Border into León
With tired feet but a lifted spirit, Jhonatan crosses the symbolic border between Palencia and León. The landscape begins to change slightly, with wider fields and villages that seem more isolated. However, the essence of the Camino remains the same: a journey inward as much as a physical one.
The sun, which has been with Jhonatan all day, begins to slowly sink, casting long shadows over the road. As he presses on, the sound of his footsteps on the gravel mingles with the soft whisper of the wind through the fields.
Arrival in Bercianos del Real Camino
Finally, after several hours of walking, Jhonatan reaches Bercianos del Real Camino. This small village, located a few kilometres before El Burgo Ranero, is the end of his extended stage today. Despite his tiredness, Jhonatan feels fulfilled. He has covered more ground than planned, explored new stories, and strengthened his connection with the Camino.
Bercianos del Real Camino is a quiet place, with few houses and an atmosphere that invites rest and reflection. Jhonatan finds a cosy hostel to spend the night. As he settles into his bed, he reflects on everything he experienced that day: the story of the Templars in Terradillos, the rich cultural heritage of Sahagún, and the sense of achievement in reaching his final destination.
Final Reflections on Stage 18: The Meaning of the Camino
A Journey of Transformation
The Camino de Santiago is not just a walk through beautiful scenery and historic villages; it is a journey of personal transformation. For Jhonatan Barrios, every day on the Camino offers a new opportunity to learn, grow, and connect with himself and with fellow pilgrims. Today’s stage, with its 25 kilometres, has been a test of physical endurance, but also a reminder of the importance of history and culture on this centuries-old journey.
The Camino Community
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Camino is the community that forms among pilgrims. Although Jhonatan has walked alone for much of the day, he has always felt the presence of other pilgrims nearby. The greetings, the smiles, and the brief but meaningful conversations at the hostels are an essential part of the experience.
Jhonatan knows that, although he has gotten ahead today and left some of his travelling companions behind, the Camino has a way of bringing people back together. Tomorrow, perhaps, he will once again cross paths with familiar faces, sharing new stories and experiences.
Continuing Towards Santiago
Jhonatan’s journey is not yet over. There are still many kilometres to cover before reaching the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Santiago de Compostela, the final destination for all peregrinos. However, with every stage completed, he feels closer not only to his physical goal, but also to a deeper understanding of himself and the world around him.
