Video Stage 28: Portomarín to Palas de Rei | Camino Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Video Stage 28: Portomarín to Palas de Rei | Camino de Santiago Frances with Jhonatan Barrios
Jhonatan Barrios describes his experience during Stage 28 of the Camino de Santiago Frances, which took him from Portomarín to Palas de Rei, covering a total of 24.5 kilometres. This stretch was completed over the course of a month, from 26 April to 26 May 2022.
Along the way, Jhonatan was struck by the crowd that had gathered in Portomarín. Hundreds of people were heading towards Palas de Rei, which was the final destination for many peregrinos on the Camino de Santiago Frances. In every small village they passed through, the bars and restaurants were packed with people looking for breakfast. The long queues led Jhonatan and his group to keep walking until they found a less crowded spot where they could satisfy their appetite.
The video Jhonatan recorded for this stage was brief, since he preferred not to capture the overwhelming number of people sharing the trail, nor the heavy rain that accompanied them for much of the way. On arriving in Palas de Rei, Jhonatan decided to enjoy a quiet dinner and visit the Iglesia de San Tirso. On this occasion, he took the time to appreciate the hospitality of the hostel and have deeper conversations with his group of travelling companions.
Stage 28: Portomarín to Palas de Rei with Jhonatan Barrios
The Camino de Santiago: Jhonatan Barrios’s Experience on Stage 28 to Palas de Rei
The Camino de Santiago, known for its deep spiritual weight and rich history, is a journey many undertake in search of something more than a simple destination. Jhonatan Barrios, a committed pilgrim, tells us about his experience on stage 28 of the Camino Frances, which runs from Portomarín to Palas de Rei. This 24.5-kilometre stage offers not only physical challenges but also moments of reflection and an intimate connection with nature and the history of Spain.
Leaving Portomarín: The Start of a Challenging Day
Crossing the Río Miño and Climbing to Monte de San Antonio
Jhonatan’s day began early in the morning, under a cloudy sky that hinted at a tough walk ahead. Setting out from the hostel in Portomarín, a charming small town on the banks of the Río Miño, Jhonatan and his fellow peregrinos began the stage by crossing the iconic bridge over this majestic river, also known as the Río Torres.
The climb up to Monte de San Antonio was one of the first challenges of the day. This stretch, marked by its steep gradient, required considerable effort from Jhonatan and the other walkers. As they climbed, the fresh morning air and the panoramic view of the Galician landscape offered a sense of serenity, even though the ascent still demanded notable physical stamina.
The Growing Number of Pilgrims on the Camino
Unlike previous stages, Jhonatan noticed a significant increase in the number of people on the route. According to him, the number of pilgrims had multiplied three- or four-fold, adding a new layer of complexity to the experience. This increase not only affected the flow of the walk, but also began to strain the services available in the small villages they passed through, which Jhonatan describes as a clear saturation of hostels and rest areas.
Through the Galician Villages: History and Culture at Every Step
Gonzar, Castro Mayor and Hospital de la Cruz: Passing Through Without Stopping
The path from Portomarín to Palas de Rei is dotted with small hamlets and villages, each with its own charm and historical significance. Among the first villages Jhonatan passed through were Gonzar, Castro Mayor, and Hospital de la Cruz. However, because of the crowds of peregrinos, Jhonatan decided not to linger long in these places. Even so, he couldn’t help but notice the rustic beauty and tranquillity each of these villages offered to travellers willing to explore them further.
Ventas de Narón and Ligonde: A Glimpse of the Past
Ligonde, one of the most historic villages Jhonatan passed through, is known for having been an important stopping point for pilgrims in the Middle Ages. This place, located on the slopes of the Sierra de Ligonde, was governed in its time by the Knights of the Order of Santiago. It had a cemetery and a hospital for pilgrims, reflecting the hospitality that has characterised the Camino de Santiago over the centuries.
History is palpable in Ligonde, and although Jhonatan couldn’t stop for as long as he would have liked because of the rain and the crowds, passing through this village left a deep impression. The architecture, ruins and remains from the medieval period echoed centuries of pilgrimage and devotion.
The Challenges of the Camino: Weather and Crowds
Rain and Delays: A Challenge on the Camino
The weather isn’t always kind on the Camino de Santiago, and Jhonatan experienced this firsthand. During this stage, the rain began to fall heavily, making the ground slippery and adding to the difficulty of the walk. The rain also brought the challenge of keeping gear dry and continuing to make progress in less than ideal conditions.
In addition to the harsh weather, the large number of peregrinos caused delays in the services offered by the villages they passed through. The strain was evident in the hostels and rest stops, where long queues and waits to secure a place to rest became part of pilgrims’ daily routine. Jhonatan had to adjust his pace and expectations, accepting these challenges as an integral part of the experience.
Resting in Portos: A Much-Needed Break
After several hours of walking in the rain and dealing with the crowds, Jhonatan and his group reached Portos, where they found a hostel to shelter in, dry off and recharge. Here, they had the chance to enjoy a traditional Galician empanada and a slice of tarta de Santiago, two local delights that offered a comforting moment of pleasure in the middle of a tough day.
The break in Portos wasn’t just physical, but mental too. The chance to sit down, dry off and enjoy a hot meal was reinvigorating, and allowed Jhonatan and his companions to carry on with renewed energy.
Arriving in Palas de Rei: A Meeting with History
The Significance of Palas de Rei on the Camino de Santiago
Finally, after a long and gruelling walk, Jhonatan reached Palas de Rei, a destination marking the end of stage 28. This town, whose name comes from “Palatium Regis” or Royal Palace, has a rich history dating back to the Visigothic period, when it was home to a monarch in the 7th century. During the Middle Ages, Palas de Rei was mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus as a crucial point on the pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in the city of Santiago de Compostela.
Despite his accumulated tiredness, Jhonatan took the opportunity to explore the streets of this historic town. The Iglesia de San Tirso, built in the late 12th century, was one of the highlights of his visit. This church retains its original Romanesque doorway on its main facade, a testament to the medieval art and architecture that still endures.
Hostel in Palas de Rei: Rest and Preparation for the Next Stage
Jhonatan and his group stayed at Albergue Sendoira, a welcoming, well-equipped hostel that offered the rest they needed after such an intense day. As in most hostels along the Camino, the tradition here was to leave shoes and walking poles outside, helping to keep the space clean and comfortable for all guests.
The hostel also had well-kept common areas, such as a dining room, a waiting area, and a laundry, where Jhonatan was able to wash his clothes and get ready for the next stage of the Camino. After a comforting dinner and an evening stroll through the streets of Palas de Rei, Jhonatan turned in for the night, ready to face stage 29 (Video Stage 29: Palas de Rei to Arzúa with Jhonatan Barrios) with the same determination that had brought him this far.
Final Thoughts on Stage 28 of the Camino de Santiago
An Experience of Resilience and Connection
Stage 28 of the Camino de Santiago, from Portomarín to Palas de Rei, was for Jhonatan Barrios an experience full of challenges and rewards. From the initial climb up Monte de San Antonio to the arrival in the historic town of Palas de Rei, every step was a testament to the resilience and deep connection that can be forged on the Camino.
The weather challenges, the crowds of pilgrims and the difficulties of the terrain only reinforced the importance of community and solidarity among walkers. Every village, every hostel, and every encounter along the way added a layer of richness to Jhonatan’s experience, as he found in every obstacle an opportunity to learn and grow.
Preparing for the Final Stages
With only three stages left before reaching Santiago de Compostela, Jhonatan found himself in the home stretch of his pilgrimage. The experiences of stage 28, with their mix of history, culture and personal challenges, had prepared him to face what remained with courage and optimism.
The Camino de Santiago is not just a physical journey; it is a spiritual and emotional passage that transforms those who walk it. For Jhonatan Barrios, every kilometre covered was one more step towards a greater goal, not just reaching Santiago, but finding a deeper meaning in every footprint left on the trail.
Conclusion
Stage 28 of the Camino de Santiago, from Portomarín to Palas de Rei, represents a microcosm of the pilgrimage as a whole: physical challenges, encounters with history, and the inevitable connection with other pilgrims sharing the same path. Through Jhonatan Barrios’s account, we can better understand the complexity and beauty of this journey, which is as much a trip to a physical destination as an inner exploration. Every step, every village, and every moment of reflection contribute to the
