Carrión de los Condes

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What is there in Carrión de los Condes

Carrión de los Condes is a town and municipality in the Tierra de Campos district, in Palencia Province, on the Camino Frances.

Readers of the Poem of the Cid know the Infantes of Carrión, the Campeador’s wicked sons-in-law, but the town has far more to offer than that story. With about two thousand residents, it is the district’s shopping centre and one of the most artistic stops on the Meseta: the church of Santiago boasts a Romanesque frieze presided over by a Pantocrator ranked among the summits of 12th-century sculpture, and Santa María del Camino shows on its doorway the legend of the maidens saved by bulls from the tribute to the Moors. On the way out, beside the bridge over the Carrión, the monastery of San Zoilo offers a splendid Plateresque cloister. The Marquis of Santillana and the Jewish poet Sem Tob were born here. Stocking up is a must: what follows is seventeen kilometres without villages.

Distances from Carrión de los Condes

From Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza it is about 17.3 km.

To Ledigos it is about 23.4 km.

And to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in Santiago de Compostela, about 406.7 km remain.



Services

As the district centre, Carrión de los Condes has everything the pilgrim needs:

  • Pilgrim information office.
  • Supermarkets and shops.
  • ATMs.
  • Health centre and pharmacies.
  • Bicycle repair shop.
  • Butchers’ and bakeries.
  • Bars and restaurants with pilgrim menus.
  • What are the locals called?

    Its people are carrioneses (masculine) or carrionesas (feminine).


    What to see in Carrión de los Condes?

    Monastery

    Monastery of Saint Clare of Assisi

    Church

    Church of Saint Andrew Carrión de los Condes

    Church

    Church of Saint James the Greater Carrión de los Condes

    Church

    Church of Saint Mary of the Way

    Church

    Church of Our Lady of Bethlehem

    Monastery

    Monastery of Saint Zoilus


    History

    Origins and the Middle Ages

    There were Vaccaean and Roman settlements, but Carrión grew in the Middle Ages as the seat of the powerful Banu Gómez counts, from whom it takes its suffix «de los Condes», of the counts. It was one of the important towns of the Kingdom of León and later of Castile: a council was held here in 1130, and the Cantar de mio Cid places the infantes of Carrión here. At its height it had a dozen churches and several pilgrim hospitals.

    The Early Modern and modern era

    Over time it lost weight to Palencia, but it remained the head of a judicial district and the centre of the district. At the end of the 19th century it was granted the title of city.

    Heritage

    Monastery of San Zoilo

    The Monastery of Saint Zoilus, Benedictine and founded in the 11th century, lies on the other side of the river. Its Renaissance cloister, with vaults full of medallions, is a marvel. For centuries it took in pilgrims; today it is a hotel and holds the tombs of the counts.

    Church of Santa María del Camino

    The Church of Saint Mary of the Way, 12th-century Romanesque, welcomes the pilgrim at the entrance to the town. On its portal, some bulls recall the legend of the tribute of the hundred maidens, who according to tradition were spared being handed over to the Muslims thanks to the Virgin.

    Church of Santiago

    Its facade holds one of the great friezes of Spanish Romanesque: a Pantocrator surrounded by the apostles and by figures representing the trades of the time. Inside there is a small museum of sacred art.

    Monastery of Santa Clara

    The 13th-century Monastery of Saint Clare of Assisi is still home to the Poor Clares. It has a museum of sacred art, and tradition says that Saint Francis of Assisi stayed here on his pilgrimage to Santiago.

    Festivities

    Corpus Christi

    The streets along the procession route are covered with carpets of flowers. It is a festival of Regional Tourist Interest.

    Saint Zoilus

    The patron saint’s festivities bring processions, music and cultural activities.

    Holy Week

    The local brotherhoods keep up processions with a long tradition.

    Carrión on the Camino

    On the Camino Frances, Carrión is the end of a stage and a place to prepare: on the way out begin the 17 km without services to Calzadilla de la Cueza, so pilgrims usually stock up on water and food here. The religious hostels are famous for their welcome and their singing.

    The river and the surroundings

    The Carrión river runs through the town. El Plantío park, on the riverbank, is the best place to rest in the shade, and walking and cycling routes leave Carrión for the surrounding area.

    In short

    Carrión de los Condes is one of the great stops on the Camino in Palencia: first-rate Romanesque, a monastery that was the pantheon of counts and a pilgrim atmosphere you can feel in every street.


    CountrySpain
    Autonomous communityCastile and León
    ProvinceProvince of Palencia
    ComarcaTierra de Campos
    Judicial districtCarrión de los Condes
    AssociationCamino de Santiago
    Location42°20′20″N 4°36′07″W
    Elevation838 m
    Area63.37 km²
    Population centresCarrión de los Condes
    Torre de los Molinos
    Population2005 inh. (2023)
    Density33.42 inh./km²
    Demonymcarrionés, carrionesa
    Postal code34120
    Twinned withEl pueblo de Filipinas
    Carrión de los Céspedes
    Carrión de Calatrava
    PatronSaint Zoilus
    PatronessNuestra Señora de Belén
    Websitewww.carriondeloscondes.org

    Camino de Santiago Frances
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